A Nineteenth-Century Bideford Doctor.

William Henry Ackland was born in Bideford in 1825 and was the son of a doctor. His father, also William Ackland, had been apprenticed to a surgeon and apothecary in Bideford, but William Henry trained at University College Hospital in London. He lived at 23, Bridgeland Street, in the house which is now the Conservative Club, with his wife and seven children. Between 1851 and 1893 he built up a large practice, which stretched from Bradworthy and Clovelly to Instow and out to Lundy. He generally visited between 8 and 15 patients a day. When he went by sea to Lundy to treat a labourer working there, he sent his bills to Mr Heaven who then owned the island, and if he was seeing one of the lighthouse keepers the bill went to Trinity House. He also went as far as Eggesford. In order to visit the Earl of Portsmouth at Eggesford House the doctor caught the train from Bideford, was collected from Eggesford Station by carriage, saw his patients who might be members of the family (the Earl had 6 sons and 6 daughters) or servants, stayed the night and returned by train the next day. Other visits were made on horseback or in a horse-drawn brougham.

Charles Kingsley was a close friend and godfather to Dr Ackland’s eldest son, who was named Charles Kingsley Ackland. Like Kingsley, Dr Ackland was concerned for the health of the poorer people. He courted wealthy patients – and the fees he charged them seemed extraordinarily high in some cases – and he treated some poorer patients for little or nothing. Occasional bartering took place, for instance when treatment for the children of Bideford saddler Walter Chope was exchanged for a new saddle for Dr Ackland’s horse.

He obtained letters of recommendation from patients such as the Earl of Portsmouth and Henry Hamlyn-Fane of Clovelly and as a result obtained the position of Justice of the Peace and the first Medical Officer of Health for Bideford. In a letter to Mr Fane of Clovelly, the Earl of Portsmouth wrote,

Mr Dear Fane, I have written to the Chancellor on behalf of Dr Ackland and I have no doubt that Dr A will be a JP for Bideford. There cannot be a more fit and proper man. He is by far the most talented man in the town and of the highest attainments. He may not be as great a consumer of gin and water and port wine. Yrs Portsmouth.’ The Earl was known to be fond of his drink, while Dr Ackland was probably a teetotaller.

He attended the wealthy Mrs Elwes of Walland Carey at Buck’s Cross and seems to have persuaded her that funding was needed for medical attention for the poor of Buck’s Mills. He then provided their medical care and when Mrs Elwes died she left a sum of money, the interest on which allowed his visits to continue.

Naturally the middle classes of Bideford would have been impressed by these illustrious connections and would want him as their doctor. He used homeopathic remedies alongside conventional medicine. Homeopathy was fashionable at the time because it was used by the Royal Family, so this would also have increased his popularity. He was instrumental in setting up the Dispensary on Bideford Quay and the first isolation hospital on Alverdiscott Road.

There seemed to be a certain amount of rivalry between the doctors in Bideford, judging by accounts of disagreements in the local papers. Dr Ackland’s 1867 diary contained a reference to a visit to a woman in labour. He said she was ‘first seen by Dr Pridham, afterwards by Mr Turner, subsequently by self. I succeeded in turning the child after ineffectual attempts by Dr Pridham and Mr Turner.’

An elderly lady who remembered Dr Ackland claimed that she saw him meet his friend Charles Kingsley in the street and Kingsley asked him where he was going. The doctor waved his hands in a characteristic way and said airily ‘Oh, westward, ho!’ meaning Northam Burrows, as the village of that name did not then exist. Supposedly this gave the author the idea for the title of his book.

William Ackland’s son, Charles Kingsley Ackland, also trained as a doctor and practised in the Strand until about 1930. Charles’s daughter Judith was an artist whose work is displayed in the Burton Art Gallery.

Liz Shakespeare.

Liz Shakespeare is the author of four books set in the Bideford area. Dr Ackland is one of the main characters in ‘The Turning of the Tide’. Photo courtesy of Wellcome Institute, London.

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The Torridge Sealock.

Torridge Sealock top gates.

Anyone who has been to the harbour at Bude will know the canal basin and sea lock where the Bude Canal meets the sea. Far fewer people are aware that just three miles up the Torridge from Bideford port is the Torridge sea lock, where the canal from Torrington opens into the tidal waters of the estuary. Strictly speaking such a lock should be called a tide lock, but in this case it was built by navvies and engineers who had just completed work on the Bude Sea Lock and so gave it the name of Sealock, which has stuck for nearly 200 years.

When the lock and the canal basin to which it gave access from the tideway were built, the whole area between Annery Kiln and the river was a hive of industrial activity including the lime kiln, pottery kilns, brick works and a major ship building yard. Despite being upstream of Bideford bridge, several sea-going ships were launched at the Sealock shipyard in the parish of Landcross, the largest being the Sedwell Jane, a brigantine of about 200 tons. Ships of this size were built up to gunwale level and then floated downstream of the Long Bridge for fitting of the superstructure.

By the end of the nineteenth century, with the canal being abandoned in favour of the railway and the old industries dying out, the sea lock fell into disrepair and virtually vanished into the landscape being filled with silt washed in by flood waters and overgrown with trees and bushes. It was rediscovered by new owners of the land in the 1970s, who started restoring the site and were instrumental in forming the Rolle Canal and Northern Devon Waterways Society in 2003, since when restoration has proceeded apace with the masonry repaired and a pair of upper lock gates now fully operational.

Chris Hassall.

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‘A Little Port’.

As promised in last month’s Buzz here is the poem about Appledore written by George Douglas Warden (father of Audrey Jones of Bideford) , who was wounded and lost his sight in World War One.

(Contributed by Audrey’s daughter-in-law, Eleanor Jones).


‘A little port’.

In Appledore, the cobbled floor

of many a steep and narrow way

seems ready to leap across the quay

over the bar and out to sea,

dancing away with a thousand years

of Devon lore from Appledore.


Like a wandering child by love beguiled

a coaster hugs the maternal quay

her lullaby the sound afar of the lone low beat

of the harbour bar.

So old, this place that time it seems

is kept in store at Appledore.


Within a maze of weathered stays

of stocks and struts and stilted beams

a toy ship waits in a toy dry dock

for her overhaul and painted frock

they’re ‘broidering “Laura” on her breast

say the crew ashore in Appledore.


Old men tell tales of winter gales

clattering boots on cobbled ways

of daunting wave and doleful bell

when they launched the lifeboat into hell

of widows mourning measured by

the weeds they wore in Appledore.


But lazy days in summer haze

and idling on the quiet quay

put thought’s winter far behind

like migrant swallows outward bound.

So on this splendid tragedy, I’ll swell no more

in Appledore.

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Bideford Home Guard, 1943.

Rear row Ptes S Laird, P Cloke, WE Voden, CMS Gosling, Sgt. R Featherstone, Pte. TD Frayne, Cpl. GR Hill, Ptes FJ Clements, G Waldron, J Lock, Cpl. F Stacey, Pte R Raymont, Cpl. EJ Moyes.

Third row L/Cpls. FD Miles, F Clarke, Cpl.RC Halbert, Cpl. R Day, Ptes C Kelly, W Weedon, J Oliver, Cpl H Mounce, Ptes SJ Short, AC Waldon, E Symonds, L Braund, A Tuplin, Cpl.A Huxtable,Cpl.F Rockey, Mr.E Brown.

Second row Sgt. S Hawkins, Pte .R Cade, Sgt.R Northcote, Sgt.TR Harding, Major Cudmore, 2/ltd WH Pascoe, Lt. C Brough, Capt. JR Ellis, 2/Lt. H Sherbourne, Sgt. F Clarke,Sgt.JH Hillman, Sgt. L Short.

Front rowPtes. R Webb, C Tryon, R Raymont, L/Cpl. ER Youngs, Ptes H Lee, WW Horn, M Vanstone, CW King, Cpl. SC Smalldon.

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Holiday snaps !

As the holiday season approaches many will consider buying a new camera. However, with the advent of the all encompassing mobile telephone is one necessary? A similarly priced camera readily captures snow scenes, beach scenes, portraits, the family cat or dog and photographs friends only when they are smiling, all in brilliant colour. Little instruction is considered necessary. How different a hundred years ago.


A traveller wishing to take photographs of scenery must first decide on the size of glass plate he intends to employ, be they 4 ¾ x 3 ¼ or 8 ½ x 6 ½ inches, although one can more readily utilise 7 ½ x 5 inch. In those countries where porters are cheap the largest format is preferred. Glass plates weigh in the region of 3 pounds per dozen and one should take at least half a gross (seventy-six, approximately 20 pounds). One might use gelatine film but glass is much to be preferred and film is not recommended for hot and humid climates.

The camera itself should be of the bellows form constructed of the finest mahogany, particularly those made by Mr. Meagher of Southampton Row or Mr. Hare of Calthorpe Street. It should have a front capable of moving vertically and horizontally, with a swing back. For normal photographs one may dispense with a tripod, however they can be useful under certain circumstances and readily purchased for 25 shillings (£1.25p). An appropriate socket will be provided in the camera along with a spirit level to ensure correct vertical and horizontal alingement.


In the field it will be necessary to have plates previously loaded in double backed holders, i.e. two plates per holder. A black light-proof bag is a necessity in which plates may be transferred safely from their original light proof packaging into the slide holders.


For cameras using 7 ½ x 5 inch plates a 9 inch lens is recommended for most subjects, Messrs Dallmeyer, Ross or Zeiss lenses should be considered. All available from respectable dealers such as Messrs. Watson and Son of High Holborn, Mr. Morley of Upper Street or Hunter & Sands of Cranbourne Street. Gelatine sheets are made in various degrees of sensitivity but their cardboard boxes are insufficient protection against injury and damp. It is recommended to have each package of a dozen placed in fairly airtight light-proof wooden boxes; during construction screws are preferred to nails. After exposure Captain Abney recommends a cardboard frame be placed between each plate or film and placed in light wooden boxes prior to being packed in a tin box whereby the lid is soldered in place as protection against damp.


A reasonable expense would be a camera for 8 guineas (£8.40p), 12 double slides at a guinea each, three lens of varying focal length approximately 15 guineas (£15. 75p), tripod 25 shillings (£1.25p). Gelatine sheets at three shillings (75p) a dozen. Chemicals 15/- (75p). A notebook in which to record each exposure, thereby to ensure correct development times later, and a sturdy box or basket to contain the whole. Due to the flexible nature of a basket a basket is preferred. Total weight approximately 60 pounds.”


From Hints to Travellers Volume II (Eighth Edition) published by The Royal Geographical Society in 1901. Edited for the Council of the Royal Geographical Society by John Coles F.R.G.S., F.R.A.S. Late Instructor in Surveying and Practical Astronomy to the Royal Geographical Society.


Happy snapping everyone! Roger Sugar.

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Bideford Races, May 1928.

This advertisement comes from the Bideford Gazette for 1928 currently housed at the Bideford Archive. The archive is run by volunteers, and you will find it is a mine of information on Torridge district; not just births, marriages and deaths, but also a record is being made of everything of interest in the world of local trades and professions, local government, agriculture, religious groups, sports clubs, streets and villages, and much more, including the Census records for family history research. There are photographs from the Bideford Gazette of sporting events, school and church celebrations, postcards of local village life and architecture. Source material comes mainly from the Bideford Gazette, from 1856 onwards, but they are sometimes able to provide information or documents of use to everyone. (Recently Buzz donated all its bound back copies from 2000 onwards).



Bideford Community Archive.


A recent addition to the Archive’s collection of local historical information, comes in the form of three accounts of the Archaeology of Westward Ho!’s prehistoric Kitchen Midden. It is appropriate to mention this just now, as the beach at Westward Ho! has been scoured of sand by the winter storms, and there is much of the original forest, peat and underlying blue clay exposed at low tide. The sand will return, of course, as it always does, but anyone interested in learning what was once down there, eight thousand years ago, might well care to peruse these documents.


One detailed document is the Inkerman Rogers’ examination of the artefacts he found there – flints, hazel nuts, antlers, etc. Another is by an Australian gentleman named Mr. D.M. Churchill, from Monash University, Melbourne, and the third, made by the Department of the Environment with Nick Balaam and 2 colleagues in 1987, is a very thorough analysis of everything that was discovered by taking away a slice of the midden. Every part of it was examined with the latest technology – radio carbon dating, dendochronology (tree rings), and includes analysis of tree and flower pollen, types of tree, and flints and tools left behind by prehistoric man all those years ago.

DW


Donations are welcome, but a small charge is made for for photocopying, and postage is charged at the going rate. You are welcome to visit, free, every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, from 9.30 to 12.00. (Closed on Bank Holidays ) Tel : 01237 471714. First floor, Council Offices, Windmill Lane, Northam, Bideford.

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Memories of a Plymouth evacuee.

With time on my hands, I have been trying to trace people who were part of my youth – over 70 years ago!


Knowing only her maiden name, and not having seen or heard of her since the end of WW2, I spent several hours on the Internet before coming up with a possible match. I then wrote to a ‘Mrs June Sims’ who, as a child, could have been evacuated to Appledore with her parents, and billeted with us, having lost their home during the Plymouth Blitz.


About a week later I received a letter from June – yes, I had found her! Below is what she had to say about her time in North Devon, which my sister Enid and I found fascinating.

Yours sincerely,

Cynthia Snowden – Northam.

..

Dear Mrs Snowden (Cynthia)

What a surprise your letter was – received the day after my 85th birthday. Yes I am the June Randle that was (now Sims). I remember Appledore well and your Mum, Dad and Enid with the blonde bob and you and your pigtails. Also remember the lovely smell of bread baking where your Dad worked, and Dulcie who lived in the big house opposite – we both caught the bus to Stella Maris Convent and often she brought me a lovely apple from her garden. Such Happy Memories and best school-days of my life (only 18 in class!!!), Greek dancing on the lawn. I was rather overwhelmed at first, having wanted to go to Edgehill College and being a Protestant – but the sisters were so kind and welcoming and, knowing we had been bombed out and lost our home in the Plymouth Blitz (being bombed every day and night – how did we stay alive?), they reduced my school fees!!! Also remember catching crabs on the quay with bacon rinds.


After 12 months my parents returned to Plymouth and I then lived with my dancing teacher and her parents Mr & Mrs Jordan who kept the New Inn at Instow.


Although worried about Mum and Dad going back to Plymouth, was well looked after and very happy, walking on the beach each day after school with Joan and the dog, gathering driftwood for the range – Mrs Jordan made the best chocolate sponge ever – I think the farmers visiting the pub helped her out with eggs etc. Also having stew with spaghetti and tomatoes to make it stretch I suppose, the things we remember. Mum also used to make pasties on a Tuesday and come and meet me and we used to go to the park and eat them. (Always hid my velour hat as we were not allowed to eat out of doors!!!)


(Followed by personal news.)


Sincerely, June.

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Floods – policy versus practicality.

With flooding very much in the news last month this may be a good time to review the policy of the authorities on flood protection and the effect it is having on the vulnerable Northam Burrows. There are two major factors contributing to flood damage from the sea ; these are wave action caused by Atlantic storms and high tides augmented by low pressure weather systems.


Last year until December was a quiet one for tide and wave erosion as there were no exceptionally high tides and generally the storms we had did not happen to coincide with the highest of them, so damage to the pebble ridge and sand dunes was comparatively minor. Even so, there were press reports of erosion of the dunes fronting Northam Burrows and some exposure of buried waste materials in the vicinity of the closed municipal rubbish dump. Temporary repairs carried out on the tip the previous winter had consisted of spreading a geotextile membrane over the eroded edge and covering it with sand and stones to stabilise it. The first photograph was taken in February 2013 showing a strip of the repaired bank, and this survived through the year until the December storm, when parts of the covering material were washed away. The second photo was taken on January 4th 2014 just after the biggest storm, which combined with a 6.8 metre tide to carry breakers over the rock armour and wash away most of the temporary works, leaving swathes of black geotextile membrane blowing in the wind.


National policy is to leave the fate of most of the Burrows to natural forces, allowing sand dunes to wash away and reform in altered locations as they have for many centuries. Unfortunately that does not make allowance for the man-made developments we have allowed to take place on this basically unstable strip of sand, and so policy has had to be adjusted to provide artificial protection for our vulnerable assets; the degree of protection depending on current estimates of the importance, or financial value, of those assets. The three chief areas of concern are the activity and entertainment centres at the south end of the pebble ridge, the hazardous waste tip at the northern end of the Burrows, and the Golf Course in between – and at once we find problems in determining who bears the responsibility for protecting these assets from the sea, let alone how to achieve that protection.


A study was carried out last year on how to protect the waste tip, at least for a few years, and a proposal is to bring in a lot of rock armour, similar to that already deployed for many years part way around, and back it up with scientifically graded pebbles like the pebble ridge itself. That just needs the approval of the appropriate authorities for the expenditure. There is always the possibility that the sea may break through permanently across the far end of the golf course and leave the tip as an island, but that is further into the future and will have to be tackled if or when it becomes imminent. The dunes that once separated the 8th Tee from the sea have already gone, (third photograph) but a considerable expanse of large pebbles has accumulated there, suggesting a (faint?) possibility that it may naturally develop into a further extension of the true pebble ridge, although that may be just for optimists !


There is a lot of work to be done on Northam Burrows in the coming year, and a lot of decision making for whoever is prepared to take responsibility. Meanwhile, there are a couple of spring tides forecast for the first week of March that will equal the highest of this winter, so let’s hope they don’t coincide with Atlantic storms this time. After that there’s a break until 10th September when, at 7:40pm., 6.9 metres is forecast which is higher than any since 2010 – could be a nice evening for a walk on the Burrows.


Chris Hassall.

(For an article on “Floods & Saltmarshes” from last year’s Buzz, link here).

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More about the Bridge Trust.

Having talked about how the Trust came to be set up and its involvement with property in the town I will now discuss the very wide range of things the Trust has funded.

 

Trustees have always been interested in education, having set up a Commercial School in 1762 and paying the teacher’s salary of £12.50 per year. This taught useful subjects to ready young Bidefordians for a merchant’s life – it continuing until well into the nineteenth century. In 1823 the Church of England set up a ‘National’ School in Old Town on the site now occupied by the Fire Station – with the Trust paying the teacher’s salary of £35 per year.

 

Some 15 years later local nonconformists established the ‘British’ School in Higher Gunstone (the building is still there) and the Trust, in a wonderful example of non-sectarianism, paid the £35 per annum salary of the school’s teacher. In 1844 an infant school was built at the top of Honestone Street (today’s Angling Club) and the Trust became a generous benefactor to this – as it did when the School of Art on the Quay was built in 1896.

 

When the new Bideford College first became a solid project I, as chairman of the Trust, was approached by the College head Veronica Matthews wondering whether we would like to ‘buy some computers’ for the new school. Veronica is an ex-tutee of mine (so is Katie Hopkins but the less I say about her the better I think!) and I was glad that the Trust gave £1/2 million (its largest ever grant) to the scheme.

 

Today any student living within the parish of Bideford is automatically eligible for £400 worth of book grants if they enter higher education. We also offer bursaries of £500 per annum and even ‘hardship grants’ to all students in the area. We also fund youngsters going on school trips where teachers wish us to help students from poorer backgrounds.

 

The Trust also gives backing to a lot of the local sports clubs including rowing, football and rugby – and in the 1720s we even set up a ‘Bowling Green’ somewhere near the top of High Street – which for me always conjures up a picture of errant bowls rolling down the hill to the river!

 

One group has always been high up on our list of those we help – the poor. In the eighteenth century we gave £12 annually to help the poor of Bideford, as well as one-off payments such as giving £20 in 1766 to buy food and sell it at subsidised prices to the poor ‘at this time of dearness of Corn’. In 1831 there was very high unemployment in the town and the Trust put aside two acres of land in Northdown Lane (as it then was) for use as allotments – the first established in Bideford. Again in 1797 William Richards ‘a poor Aged Man’ was given 3 guineas (£3.15) ‘to buy him a Horse to carry Coals in lieu of his Horse which lately broke his Thigh.’ Today we still deal with cases passed on to us by Social Services and various other charities.

 

The Trust regularly helps with medical issues having put funds towards hospital minibuses, the ‘Chestnut Appeal’, electric wheelchairs and specialist medical equipment for our local hospital. Back in 1787 (and on two other occasions) we even paid for the town’s poor to be inoculated against smallpox – and paid for one poor individual to be treated for his mental illness at ‘Bedlam’ hospital on London.

 

Other funding has been directed to fire fighting – in the 1770s we bought the town’s first fire engine – really a large pump, and also its second in 1803 when the town council refused to spend the money. More recently we paid for the new toilets in Victoria Park, the Queen’s Jubilee fountains on the Quay and helped fund the Jubilee Square scheme.

 

Finally we have had a long tradition of paying for apprenticeship indentures and the tools needed by these young people. Today such traditional apprenticeships have gone and so we now fund ‘Business Start-Ups’ where people on low incomes or who are unemployed and who wish to start in business are given a two part grant of £5000 to help them on their way. This scheme has been running for 16 years now and although not every one has been successful many people are now running their own business and employing others.

 

You may have been surprised at what the Trust does – certainly, without its benign presence in the town, Bideford and its surrounding area would be by far the poorer. If you wish to know more about the Trust and its history there is a small booklet entitled ‘The Long Bridge of Bideford through the centuries’ available from Walter Henry’s in High Street or the Burton Art Gallery and museum.

Peter Christie

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About the Bridge Trust.

As promised, and following on from my introduction to the Bridge Trust, I will discuss some of the history of the body. No-one knows when the Trust was set up but it must have been soon after the Bridge was built – so possibly at the end of the thirteenth century. Over the years rich Bidefordians have left property ‘to the Bridge’ (the last occasion was only two years ago!) to honour their native town and the Trust itself has been an active purchaser of property making it the largest local landlord (apart from Tarka Housing).

We have the Trust’s accounts from the end of the seventeenth century and the minutes from 1764. At this date there were some fifteen trustees, most of them being merchants or gentry, though some clergymen also served. I have transcribed, typed and indexed the minutes and copies are available in the North Devon Record Office. They detail the two main aspects of the Trust’s work – management of property and charitable spending.

The former was, of course, centred on the Bridge itself and the minutes reveal many occasions when quite large sums of money were laid out in repairs, whilst on other occasions warnings about possible damage were issued. In 1791, for example, the trustees wrote to a local merchant complaining about his cart that was so highly laden ‘as they think will injure the said Bridge’. Weight limits are nothing new.

In 1802 there is a note that ‘Some malicious persons have repeatedly thrown down the Coping Stones of the Bridge’ and so the trustees hired two men to act as ‘watchmen’. They even spent some money on a ‘Centry Box’ to house them. In 1808 the Trust carried out work on nine arches at a cost of £50 per arch, whilst a year later they discussed installing a drawbridge at the East end of the Bridge. This never occurred : in 1826 they erected oil lamps on the Bridge, but these were soon vandalised and in 1835 were replaced with gas lamps after the trustees allowed the new Bideford Gas Company to install gas pipes across the Bridge. The largest spending came when the old medieval structure was widened in 1864 and again in 1925 – to such an extent that it is difficult to picture what the old Bridge looked like.

In addition to this spending on the Bridge the trustees developed Bridgeland Street from the 1690s and extended the Quay up to their new development. They also built the original Bridge Buildings in 1758 which housed the town hall and the Grammar School. In 1761 they even purchased the Fox & Goose pub on the Quay (where Grenville House now stands) and gave it to the town as the Mayor’s ‘Mansion House’ – even if they later took it back!

In the 1880s they provided the town’s first custom-built post office in the High Street (now Ladbroke’s) and in 1882 spent £4,500 on building the new Bridge Buildings. Over the years 1890-1920 the Trust constructed the houses in Victoria Gardens, Marland Terrace and the top of Honestone Street.

In the twentieth century the two world wars interrupted this work, but in the 1990s the Trust refurbished the old Post Office, the Bakehouse in Queen Street, Friendship House opposite the Market as well as shops in High Street, Mill Street and Bridgeland Street. A proud record and one which shows how much the built environment in the town has depended on the Trust and its deep pockets.

In the next article I will look at what the Trust has funded in Bideford.

Peter Christie.

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Coronation Day, 1953.

Photos from Owen Vaggers.

In the paper edition of November’s “Buzz”, we published this –

Two photographs of the Coronation Day, 1953, which took place at the bottom of Pitt Hill, Appledore . I cannot remember all the the names of the persons in the photographs, but I am sure some of your readers can.

Picture 1: The two lads at the bottom of the picture are Left to Right :- Michael Eastwood and Billy Edwards. On the other side of the table L. to R. Alan Popham, ? , Phillip Scilly, Owen Vaggers, John Scilly, ?, ? Hargreaves (Visiting ) and ?

Picture 2: The two girls at the bottom of the picture are L. to R. Geraldine Prouse and Alice Vaggers. On the other side of the table L. to R. ?, ?, Gillian Eastwood, Alan Popham, ?, Phillip Scilly, Owen Vaggers, ?, ? Hargreaves (Visiting).

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An 1844 view of Bideford.

“BIDEFORD (ST. MARY), a sea-port, incorporated market-town, and parish, having separate jurisdiction, and the head of a union, locally in the hundred of SHEBBEAR, Great Torrington and N. divisions of DEVON, 39 miles (N. W. by W.) from Exeter, and 201 (W. by S.) from London; containing 5,211 inhabitants, of whom 4,830 are in the town. This place, called also Bytheford, of which its modern appellation is a variation, derives its name from being situated near an ancient ford on the river Torridge . . . after the revocation of the edict of Nantes, in 1685, many French Protestants settled in the town, and established the manufacture of silk and cotton; a great quantity of wool was imported from Spain, and, in 1699, its trade with Newfoundland was inferior only to that of London and Exeter . . . Ship-building is extensively carried on: during the late war, several frigates were launched at this port, and there are eight or ten dockyards, in which smaller vessels are built. The principal articles of manufacture are cordage, sails, and common earthenware; there are also several tan-yards, and a small lace manufactory. . . The free grammar school, of remote foundation, was rebuilt in 1657 . . . A charity school is supported by the trustees of the Bridge Estate, and by subscription; a building has likewise been erected for a national school.”

[From Lewis’ Topographical Dictionary of England (1844)]

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History of “The Westward Ho! Hotel”.

In February 1864, Captain George Mill Frederick Molesworth’s company began building the hotel which was originally to be called ‘The Royal Hotel.’   As well as building hotels, houses and villas, George Molesworth set up two colleges – the United Services College in 1874 and Kingsley Memorial College in 1882.   The owners of the hotel asked Charles Kingsley to perform the opening ceremony but at first he declined, believing that the development of the area would ruin its rugged beauty.   A quick change of name was undertaken and the hotel became ‘The Westward Ho! Hotel’.    Kingsley attended, took his cheque and it is said he never came near the place again.


Later the hotel reverted to ‘The Royal Hotel’, following the patronage of the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII).    It was described as Victorian Domestic Gothic Style and contained 33 luxury bedrooms and 75 acres of land.    By 1866 a matching villa has been built to the east of the hotel catering for the servants staying in the main hotel along with other minor customers.    This building survives and is named Golden Bay Court.

Access to the village was via the steep Stanwell Hill and at the bottom near the hotel were stables and a public bar for the coachmen and ostlers.    The stables were converted to dwellings in the 1990s and named ‘The Rocks’.    In 1900 an extension was added to the hotel called the ‘Golden Bay Tea Rooms’, which became the well-known and loved ‘Anchor Inn’ many years later.    In 1963 the hotel, now named ‘Golden Bay Hotel’ closed down.   It was converted to 14 flats and the land was sold off.    In 1976 the tennis courts opposite the hotel entrance were sold off and the 12 houses built there, which stand today.    Demolition of the old hotel along with The Anchor pub took place in 2000 and ‘Ocean Park’ apartments were built on the site.   Next time you pass, take a look at the lower section, which is built from reclaimed stone taken from the original Westward Ho! Hotel.

More information at www.westwardhohistory.co.uk
and “Westward Ho! History Group” on Facebook.

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More memories of Bideford Hospital.

There were three wards: male, female and children’s. Off the corridor leading to the female ward were three rooms for private patients.

The staff, as far as I can remember, included the Matron, Miss Daymond. There was one Welsh SRN and two Irish SENs. The rest of us were students and we students were often left in charge of the ward. As a student nurse left in charge one night I forgot to hand in the key to the drugs cupboard. Luckily they found me downstairs in a lecture so I hadn’t left the building!

On nights there would be one night nurse to each ward. The Night Sister did her rounds night and morning but was always on hand to give us help. She used to bring us our dinner – I don’t know if she cooked it herself or just warmed it up. She also used to make fudge using condensed milk. She later moved to Grenville Nursing Home in Meddon Street, as a midwife, and delivered our second son, Stephen.

There was also an almoner, a kind of social worker who dealt with non-medical problems.

There were no resident surgeons. Operations were performed by two GPs – Dr Hutchinson (?) and Dr Wake. The former had been an army doctor during the war.

At first accommodation for staff was limited and I was ‘billeted’ at home, for which my mum was paid 7/6d. Later accommodation became available but I stayed at home – but of course the payments stopped. Rationing was still on and we were allocated our butter and margarine. The butter didn’t last long but I’d rather have eaten dry bread than the margarine so that was passed to my mother.

People stayed in hospital much longer after operations in those days and there was a regular routine to prevent bedsores. This entailed washing and rubbing the vulnerable area with soap and water and then making sure it was completely dry with talc.

Lectures were taken in a building below the main building and were taken during off duty periods.

One of our chores was cleaning out the patients’ lockers. This wasn’t really a chore as it was a good time to chat to the patient.

Training in those days meant two years in Bideford followed by two years in Bristol or Reading. In bigger hospitals the normal training time was three years.

My pay was £4 a month, which I suppose was pocket money as our food and uniform were supplied.

Then of course there was the sluice. All the bedpans etc were cleaned there (no throwaways). This task was usually allocated to the most junior of staff.

Elizabeth Evans.

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More memories of St. Peter’s Church, East the Water.

Following on from Mike Davy’s article (July Buzz), here are some memories. My first is of 1974 when I brought my elder daughter Caroline to the Sunday school run by Rosemary Butler. Living in Torridge Mount, it was only a short walk down the road. I was struck by the friendly atmosphere of the church and its congregation. There were many young families and the Sunday school was full -as was the choir.

The Sunday school had many outings including the summer picnic (usually at Westward Ho! ) The annual Sports Day in Victoria park with all the other churches in the area was well attended and St Peter’s usually did very well. Also the yearly Eisteddford held at the Methodist Church and again St Peter’s did very well winning many cups and trophies.

I remember the St Peter’s Day teas, held outside the church in June,the Christmas bazaars and of course the famous musicals run by Julian Wheeler and Joy Baron; the very first one,David in 1979being held in the community hall now replaced by houses behind the old Boards garage . and the final one in 1990 in St Peter’s Church.

These were really hard work for the cast but certainly paid off as every year the Church was full for the three or four nights of the production. I remember cramming in almost 300 each night for ‘Greater than Gold in 1984. Health and safety would have had a fit. When Fr. Robert Gordon became curate in 1993 we started a St Peter’s social club and enjoyed many outings. Lots of other social events drew the congregation closer together.

Jean Jones.


Christine Cook started attending St Peter’s in 1956. At the time of writing she is 102! She used to sit in the front of the church with Ida Bow who lived in Mines Rd and taught the infants at East the Water primary school, and Hilda Braddick who lived in Grenville Terrace and also taught Sunday school. She remembers them being very strict but kind. There were about 40 children. Bell Pope also taught the babies in the Old Community Centre and was famous for her homemade marmalade.

I have some fond memories of the church, as my late husband Eddy was head choir boy in 1935/6. Eddy’s brother Steve and his wife looked after the church when they lived in Furzebeam terrace. Our son and daughter were christened there.

L Bedler.


I was born in 1936 at my granny’s house in Brookfield Street,East-the -Water and I lived with my parents at Sentry Corner until I left for college in 1954.I attended St Peter’s church Sunday School and services throughout this time.
I remember many people during this time. Mrs Trigger played the organ,her husband was the station master and there is still a lovely black marble grave stone commemorating them at East-the -Water cemetery. Mr Jones,a Welshman,sang in choir with a deep bass voice. Miss Braddick and Miss Bow were teachers at East-the -Water primary school,and helped a lot with the church
St Peter’s was what the Anglican church described as a ‘high church’ meaning it had a lot of ceremony and Miss Bow laid out all the priest’s vestments in a special way which I was always fascinated by as a small girl..Mr Gordon Prince who had a gents outfitters in Mill St along with his wife did a lot of work for the church, and a lady called Mrs Arnold who lived in Fort Terrace washed and starched the choir boys’ surplices each week so that they looked pristine on Sunday.
St Peter’s was a daughter church of St Mary’s, the priests were curates,and I assume the Rector was ultimately in charge. The two I remember most vividly were Hubert Annear who lived with his mother on Springfield Terrace. Mrs Annear wore a lovely bright red coat which as a small girl I greatly admired.
The Reverend Beddows lived in Park Lane with his parents;he was a very kind man.His mother had a very tiny dog which she used to say closed his eyes when prayers were said,which meant of course we children all peeped to see if it was so.
I thought the inside of the building was lovely as a small girl.I especially remember festivals and at Easter there was a shallow metal trough which fitted on top of the font,which was filled with primroses picked in the local lanes on Good Friday. It took a great many primroses which I am sure conservationists would frown on today,but the perfume as you entered the church on Easter day was marvellous. There was a rather odd flat- roofed building at the side of the church,which could have been an air-raid shelter originally,which was used as a church hall for many years.
In 1990 there was a celebratory dinner to celebrate 100 years since the church was founded at the Royal Hotel. Unfortunately I was unable to attend but my mother went and enjoyed it very much;she continued to attend services until she died in 1996 and her funeral service was held at St Peters,which had meant a great deal to her.
It’s sad in some respects that the church is going, but a new life for the site is better than a derelict building,and many Victorian churches have suffered the same fate.
I have many happy memories which I will always have with me.

Margaret Lillington (formerly Copp).

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