Freezing.

In this age of man-made global warming it is unlikely that we will see a repetition of what occurred in Bideford in 1894-5 and 1963. Simply put, this was the freezing over of the River Torridge around the Bridge. Both of these happened during a prolonged period of extremely cold weather, but the impacts were very different.

The first, shown here in two contemporary photographs, saw headlines in the Bideford Gazette which read ‘Distress in Bideford – A relief committee formed.’ Many men worked in outdoor occupations and the long period of frost and snow saw many thrown out of work and in ‘distress’.

In response the Mayor and rector hosted a meeting to seek subscriptions to provide soup to families said to be ‘on the verge of starvation’. The Gazette reports the sums donated by the councillors present, which ranged from 52p to £5. Further money came in over the next few days – enough to open a daily Soup Kitchen at the Music Hall in Bridgeland Street, with a second kitchen opening at East-the-Water every other day and another at Old Town also operating on alternate days. In addition Messrs How & Co. announced the distribution of several tons of coal to the poor.

A week later the Gazette could report ‘From all quarters little children were converging upon the Music Hall; some carried jugs, and others swung empty cans, some were warmly clad, many, alas, were thinly clad, but all looked hungry, and there was an anxiety in the eyes of some of the little mothers as they hurried along Bridgeland Street, lest the soup should hold out until their turn came.’

Eventually some £120 was collected and spent on soup, this being enough to tide the poor over the worst effects of the cold snap.

Compare this to the freezing up of the Torridge in 1963 – shown in the photograph below. No-one was starving and no soup kitchen was required – but the Bridge Trust did employ a large group of unemployed men to break up the larger ice floes piled up against the Bridge piers in order to protect the arches from damage. Unfortunately the damage that was caused was later blamed for the collapse of the two westernmost arches five years later. This could never be proved, of course, but suffice to say it seems unlikely that the Bridge and Bidefordians will experience another cold period so extreme that the river freezes over – but we will see.

Peter Christie.

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One hundred years ago; December 1917/ January 1918.

Christmas is coming and in spite of the War, Bideford plans to celebrate the season. The Christmas Market will take place on Friday 21st December. Coles and Lee, trading from the Gazette Office, suggest that handbags make excellent presents, as do wallets, photo cases and pocket books. Prices range from 1/3d to 38/6d, (which would be about £130 today.) Mrs Karslake of London House offers picture books “for the little ones, who must be remembered” and mufflers for soldiers and sailors.

On the food front, Bideford Guardians will increase out-relief for Christmas week; adults will receive 1/6d instead of 1/- and children 1/- instead of the usual 6d. Extra Christmas fare will be provided for the residents, but due to Food Control regulations they would have to do without the usual puddings.

Farleigh’s Stores have received a “very choice” parcel of Government flour, priced at 1/4d for a 7lb bag. They also advertise tinned salmon, which at 1/2d a tin is equal in nutrition to 2/6d worth of meat. The retail price of butter is fixed at 2/4d (weight not specified) and sugar is still strictly rationed.

At Lavington Chapel’s Sale of Work, War Ration Tea will be served at 6d each. The opening ceremony will be performed by the Mayor, Councillor A R Adams.

In other news, Mr Kelly, headmaster of Langtree School, would like to set up a library and appeals for books suitable for juvenile reading. Gifts to the various local hospitals in December include some unusual items – a football, hot-water bottles, pillows with cases and brawn.

On the farming front, Army horses are now in the district and available for ploughing – the ground is very wet and tractors are struggling.

January begins with a screening of Charlie Chaplin’s new film “The Immigrant” at the Palace Cinema.

Bideford Municipal Science, Art and Technical College offers a wide range of courses for the new term including pottery, chemistry, magnetism and electricity. A class for embroidery will be opened if sufficient numbers join. Bideford Grammar School’s next term will begin on 10th January, with Edgehill following on the 15th. Mrs Frank Braund’s elocution classes recommence on 25th January at Friendship’s Hotel.

Stewart & Co. 52 & 56a Mill Street are holding a remnant sale over two days. Mr J Woolf of Barnstaple Street, who attends the Pannier Market on Tuesdays and Saturdays, advertises for 1,000 rabbits, any number of new laid eggs – and moleskins. We believe the moleskins were used inside shoes to prevent blisters and also by plumbers. (Does anyone know of other uses?)

These and many more items of local interest are available to read at the Bideford Community Archive at the Council Offices, Windmill Lane, Northam. Tel: 01237 471714. Open Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday mornings or visit our website www.bidefordarchive.org.uk.

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Felicity’s sustainable fish cookery – December.

 

Many people have asked me about the different smoked versions of Clovelly Herring that are so plentiful in December. Traditionally the herring would be smoked to eat through the winter months, so I have added a very simple recipe for ‘Kippercakes’ that can be made in a batch and use for quick delicious breakfast or supper.

Here are all the types of smoked herring we sell on our stall; more info on Appledore Sustainable Fish facebook.

Kippers – Split and cold smoked Clovelly herrings, either whole on the bone or boned.

Bloaters – Cold smoked whole fish: requires short cooking time.

Bucklings – Hot smoked Clovelly herring: whole fish smoked, ready to eat.

Cold smoked cured kipper fillets; Ready to slice thinly and ready to eat.

Red Herrings: smoked whole, and in the kiln for at least a week!  Combine into a fish dish.

The simplest way to cook our Clovelly kippers is to jug them in a modern way-

Remove the kippers from the packaging and place the kippers – boned or whole in the bottom of cooking pot with a close-fitting lid.

Pour boiling water over the fish until they are totally submerged and replace the lid, thus trapping the steam.

Leave to steep for 5-15 mins, depending on size, turning over if the kippers are large – most Clovelly kippers will only require 10 mins.

Remove from hot water and pour away this water in the drain outside – to stop the fish smell in the kitchen/house.

Dress the kippers with a knob of butter, a squeeze of lemon and freshly ground pepper.

Eat with brown bread-fresh or toasted and a squeeze of more lemon – Delicious!

Mackerel or Kipper Cakes.

Serves 4

Ingredients.

455g kipper or smoked mackerel fillets, fresh or defrosted, skinned

Beaten egg. Worcestershire sauce. 170g fresh breadcrumbs, lemon.

Method.

Preheat grill.

Place fillets into a food processor or blender. Process or blend until finely flaked.

Stir in egg, dash Worcestershire sauce and breadcrumbs.

Divide mixture into 8 pieces and shaped into 5cm rounds. Chill for 10-15 minutes.

Cook under low grill for 8-10 minutes, turning once.

Garnish with lemon and serve with salad and tomato and onion relish.

Excellent breakfast dish ; recipe from ‘Seafood Kitchen’.

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Bideford’s ‘prefabs’.

During the Second World War huge numbers of houses were destroyed by enemy action, and as early as 1944 Winston Churchill announced an EFM (Emergency Factory Made) housing programme. In 1945 the new prime minister Clement Atlee began implementing the scheme and within six years some one million new ‘prefabs’, as they came to be known, had been built – and I lived in one as a child.

In Bideford some fifty were built at Bowden Green and named the Grenville estate. The rapidly assembled, prefabricated houses were simple but perfectly acceptable constructions and, unusually for the time, were ‘all electric’ with luxurious touches like fridges being available. The first was opened in April 1946 by the Mayor W.H.Chubb, who was accompanied by councillors and some of the first tenants. All this was reported in the Gazette along with some photographs as shown here.

The buildings were only designed for a 10 year life span but residents grew to love them so much they didn’t want to leave and it wasn’t until July 1964 that the town council decided to demolish them. This move immediately led to protests from the prefab dwellers – as shown in the attached cutting from the Gazette.

The tenants lost the battle, however, and their houses were removed and replaced by 3-storey blocks of flats – which in their time have now been demolished and replaced by new accommodation! Nothing ever stands still, but one has to wonder if the concept of ‘prefabs’ should be revisited to help tackle the nation’s current housing shortage?

Peter Christie.

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Felicity’s sustainable fish cookery – November.

Here is a Devon version of ‘Stargazey pasties’ made with Clovelly herrings.

Devonshire Stargazey Pasty.

Ingredients.

450g puff pastry.

225g potato (cubed).

4/6 Herrings – filleted and sliced.

rashers of bacon.

1 onion.

50g butter .

1 tbsp. chives – chopped.

1 tbsp. parsley, chopped.

275g clotted cream.

Milk or egg for glazing.

Method.

Boil the potatoes for about 15mins.

Grill the bacon until the edges start browning, also slice and fry the onions in light oil until they are softened.

Chop up the cooked bacon and add to a bowl with the cooked diced potato, sliced herring fillets, chopped herbs and the softened onions and mix together.

On a floured surface roll out the puff pastry thinly and then cut rounds out to fit size 7inch/18cm side plates.

Fill the centre of each round with mixture on one half (be careful not to overfill). Add a spoonful of clotted cream on top.

Dampen the edges of the pasty with milk, fold and crimp the edges together carefully so that everything is sealed in.

Glaze with beaten egg and milk mixed, or just milk, and place on a non- stick baking tray.

Bake in the oven at 180C /gas mark 4 for 30 mins. until pastry is a golden brown.

Serve with seasonal vegetables or salad or take out with you on a walk or picnic.

Delicious with tomato chutney!

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One hundred years ago – November 1917.

Children from Bideford schools have collected approximately two tons of horse chestnuts, which will save a ton of cereals in munitions work.

North Devon Appeals Courts: Many columns in every edition are given to reporting the proceedings of employers appealing about their staff being taken to go to war. Farmers are protesting that on one hand they are being asked to increase food production, yet threshing is not being done because engine drivers and the labourers are being conscripted. Another farm instance this month is William Cole (18) of Bucks Cross who works with his father, Edward, breeding and training farm horses. They have 4 agricultural horses and 9 colts to be trained and this cannot be done alone. His appeal was allowed.

At Parkham the continuous showery weather has allowed very little ploughing to be done but an experiment at Melbury using a tractor saw the land turned and cultivated with some success. However rabbits ate everything that sprouted, but continued trapping saw the problem diminished, the crop grew, and now sheep can be seen feeding.

R Dymond & Co is offering for sale: A detached villa formerly called ‘The Ferns’ but now known as ‘Straiton’ at Buckleigh; 2, Nelson Terrace, Westward Ho! house and shop, & ‘East Glen’, Orchard Hill, Northam.

Another agent is advertising: A two-stall stable and Coach House, Torridge Street Bideford, 1 Torridge Street, 33 & 34 Torrington Lane, 35 Clifton Street, (a corner dwelling) & 35 Torrington Lane, which has a large frontage and has been re-roofed.

The Governors of Edgehill College have purchased ‘Kiltrasna’, a large residence with 15 acres high up North Down Road. It will become a hostel for the increasing number of students attending the college.

An alarming accident occurred in Bideford later in the month. The Hartland to Bideford Brake pulled by 2 horses was descending Grenville Street and as it turned down into the High Street the shaft connecting the horses to the coach broke, causing the coach to run into the horses. They started off and the entire assemblage careered down the street, narrowly missing several shoppers. The driver, with considerable skill turned the horses around the National Provincial Bank corner onto the Quay towards the Kingsley statue whereupon the coach rolled over onto its side. The horses were unharmed and the driver proceeded to extricate six passengers from the wrecked coach.

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These and many more items of local interest are available to read at the Bideford Community Archive at the Council Offices, Windmill Lane, Northam. Tel: 01237 471714. Open Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday mornings or visit our website www.bidefordarchive.org.uk

The Archive’s Annual General Meeting will be held on Monday 20th November 2017 commencing at 7.15pm in the Council Chamber, Northam Town Council, 1 Windmill Lane, Northam. The Mayor of Bideford will preside. If you would like to consider joining the Archive’s Committee please email [email protected]. There are numerous posts to be filled including Chair, Vice-Chair, Treasurer and Secretary.

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Rope Walk – “The Battle of the Posts”.

Rope Walk today is a narrow but well used roadway running parallel to the Pill. Its name obviously records the presence of the ropemaking industry which was once so important to the ship-owning merchants of Bideford – but how many know the odd story behind the disappearance of the industry?

Around 1876 H.M.Restarick, a ship-builder of East-the-Water, took over the Rope Walk and, aware of the need for ever longer ropes, extended his ropemaking yard including some new posts – right across Chingswell Street and into the Strand. This obviously upset the local residents who immediately complained to the town council, who responded by ordering Restarick to take down the new posts as soon as possible.

Unfortunately Restarick was also a town councillor himself and he told his fellow councillors bluntly ‘Horses, carts, carriages, pedestrians etc could only pass subject to the convenience of the rope manufacturers’ and he really couldn’t understand why everyone was getting so agitated!

The council then ordered their Surveyor and his men to physically remove the contentious posts. They arrived at 7 a.m. one morning – only to find Restarick and some 50 of his employees guarding the posts. The shipbuilder then ‘dared the Surveyor to touch the posts’ – at which point the council men retreated.

Local papers satirically termed this ‘The Battle of the Posts’ as they reported a second attempt to uproot the posts at midnight where ‘a big strong fellow by the name of Passmore’ led the council men but as soon as he began work he was seized by Restarick’s men and escorted away. He was lucky as the ropemakers ‘had a bucket of tar and a bag of feathers near at hand and were very anxious to use them.’ To celebrate their victory they erected some ‘triumphal arches’ made of evergreens and topped with triumphant mottoes.

A month or so after this a council election was held where ‘pro-post’ candidates were elected in the heaviest poll ever recorded in town. The new council half-heartedly attempted to reach some agreement but Restarick refused and the posts remained at least until 1906 when, some 8 years after Restarick had died, the owner of the Strand Collar Works, which had replaced the Rope Walk ‘generously decided to forego his rights in respect of the posts on the Strand’ and they were removed. Exciting times in Bideford!

Peter Christie.

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One hundred years ago – October 1917.

The Borough of Bideford announces, under the powers conferred by the Retail Prices Order 1917, the Sale of coal prices for the forthcoming winter months:

Best Lydney House Coal £2.0.0d per ton. £2.2.6d delivered to the customers’ house.

Lancashire House Coal £2.5.0d per ton. £2.7.6d delivered.

Lydney Nuts £1.18.4d per ton or £2.0.10d delivered.

27 Bridgeland Street Bideford, formerly occupied by Mrs Field is now for Sale by Auction. The Bridge Trust own a lease signed on 26th November 1890 for the next 99 years. The Ground Rent has been set at £10 per annum.

Also for Sale 17 Winterbourne Terrace Lime Grove Bideford. Freehold. A W Cock, Auctioneers, 7 Grenville Street acting as agents for both sales.

In the village of Monkleigh two freehold thatched cottages are offered for sale by R Blackmore & Sons. The auction will take place next month.

North Devon Sugar prosecutions. Before the County Petty Sessions in Bideford is the owner of Rowena Boarding house in Westward Ho! for unlawfully obtaining 88 lbs of sugar for the purpose of preserving home grown crops. Upon investigation no jams, conserves or preserves had been found and on interview the owner admitted that she has failed to realise the significance of her actions. The Court felt that a warning needed to be given regarding the unlawful acquisition of goods in acute shortage and she was fined four guineas.

The Arbroath registered schooner ‘Surprise’ with Captain and four hands ran aground and was wrecked off Northam Burrows. She was bound for Rouen from Port Talbot and the Captain, who was unfamiliar with the estuary, was blown onshore by a westerly gale and flood tide. The Appledore lifeboat attended but could not get near to her. One crewman, a Dane, was washed ashore in the Taw estuary 1½ miles from Braunton and another came ashore at Chivenor. The Captain’s body was washed ashore at Woolacombe.

Bideford School Inspectors reporting to the Town Council point out that 33% of the Infants in Geneva school are underweight and across the town’s schools 75% of all girls are undernourished. The War is having an effect upon all levels of the population.

Each month the newspaper records the gifts that are donated to the two local VAD Hospitals at Enderly, Torrington and Commons, Northam. Eggs, milk, vegetables and fruit are commonly given. This month rabbits come from Lord Clinton and pheasants from Lady Gertrude Rolle. Other gifts include playing cards, cake, cigarettes, slippers and the ubiquitous socks.

These and many more items of local interest are available to read at the Bideford Community Archive at the Council Offices, Windmill Lane, Northam. Tel: 01237 471714. Open Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday mornings or visit our website www.bidefordarchive.org.uk.

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Felicity’s sustainable fish cookery – October.

Here is a wonderfully flexible and tasty recipe for a pasta cod dish. The original is a recipe from a restaurant in Rome -so an authentic Italian / Mediterranean dish. The best fish to use is salt cod. I used some fish from Newfoundland given to me by a cod fisherman from Petty Harbour near St Johns, when I visited in July. I also use fresh spinach for the vegetarian dish -both versions are delicious. You can use fresh cod or even local caught pollack as well.

Tagliatelle with Cod and pecorino cheese. (vegetarian version with fresh spinach leaves).

Ingredients

For the Stock-2 sticks of celery and chopped onion, fennel trimmings or seeds, parsley stalks and block pepper or peppercorns. 350g cod fillet (or salt cod fillet, if available).

50-100g of fresh washed spinach leaves – for a vegetarian dish.

1 small onion (could be red onion, for added colour).

6 tbsp. olive oil.

450g tagliatelle or spaghetti.

100g pecorino cheese, or ready grated Italian cheese.

Method

Simmer the stock ingredients together for about 15 min Poach the fresh cod in the stock for under 5mins, or soaked salt cod for 10 mins. Lift out with a slotted spoon, blot with kitchen towel and pull away from skin, and using a fork flake the fish and set aside in a bowl. If using spinach leaves wash the leaves and set to dry in a colander.

Cook the pasta in plenty of salted water until al dente. Chop the onion into chunky pieces. In a large frying pan fry the onion in the olive oil until soft and lift the pasta with any residual water clinging to it.

Pull the pan from the heat, add the cheese and mix vigorously until creamy – adding extra pasta cooking water, if necessary. Add the torn basil and fish flakes (or spinach leaves) toss again, and serve.Add more grated cheese and garnish with basil sprigs.

This tastes absolutely delicious whether with fish or spinach leaves.

September was a busy Fish Festival month with Festivals in Newquay and Brixham. Wouldn’t it be good if we could have a fish festival in Appledore Fish Dock next year to celebrate both River and Sea fishing? Let me know if you would like to contribute to this idea? [email protected]. Next month is Herring Month with recipes for fresh and smoked Herring.

The Bideford Bridge Trust has awarded a grant to two Primary schools in Bideford for the Brilliant Fish Education group to run “History of Fishing in Newfoundland and Salt cod recipe demonstration/tasting sessions this Autumn.

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All the fun of the Fair!

Fairs have been visiting Bideford for one hundred and fifty years at least and even though today they face huge competition from computer games and local attractions the travelling show people still come. The history of the fair in Bideford has rarely been recorded but we know that for much of the nineteenth century the stalls and sideshows were erected on the Strand. Shown in photograph 1 is one of the boxing booths on the Strand where aspiring local boxers could take on professionals – and, more often than not, realise they weren’t quite as good as they thought.

When the gulley and stream flowing down the Pill was finally filled in around 1900 to accommodate the Bideford and Westward Ho! railway (the Appledore section came later) the showmen soon realised this large area of flat land would be ideal for their stalls and rides and they moved here – as shown in photograph 2. Notice the amount of litter scattered around – clearly this isn’t just a modern problem. The presence of the Kingsley statue (erected 1906) and the fashions indicate this picture dates from around 1910.

The third photograph shows the 1968 fair, with some very traditional-looking sideshows.

For many decades visiting fairs set up on the Pill and even spilled on to the Quay and along Bridgeland Street.

Over time, however, demands for car parking and complaints over road blockages saw the council move the fair site to the river bank in 1970 as shown in the unusual fourth photograph below taken from the top of the Post Office sometime around 1975.

This site was rather small and when the new Riverbank car park was opened in 1991 it allowed the larger rides and stalls we see today to spread out. Whatever their age many Bidefordians will have happy memories of when ‘the fair’ came to town, so let us hope the show people continue to visit bringing a touch of the exotic to Bideford during the few days they are here.

Peter Christie.

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Another ‘lost shop’ – Taylor Brothers.

Shops come and go all the time in all towns, with a few lasting for some time – but even these eventually close. One that fits this latter category is Taylor Brothers’ shoe shop in Mill Street. I first started buying shoes there 40 years ago, but John and Angela Taylor, the present owners, can trace the beginnings of the business back to around 1938 when John’s father Reg served his apprenticeship with a shoe repair shop situated in one of the Art Deco buildings in front of the Baptist church in Mill Street.

Reg used his new skills to set up his own outlet in the front room of a house in Meddon Street and after the war set up a shoe repair business with his brother Mick in New Street, Torrington (opposite White’s Lane). The two did well, especially after securing the contract to repair shoes for both RAF Chivenor and St.Mawgan’s, and in 1949 moved back to Bideford acquiring 44 Mill Street and later the adjoining number 43. The two shops were completely remodelled in the 1970s to create the premises that have become familiar to generations of children and parents alike. As their available space enlarged so the brothers expanded into selling new shoes and leather goods and then added key cutting to their services. Reg died in 1981 just a year after taking on his son John, and the latter continued to run the business with his uncle Mick who passed on in 1995.

John and Angela have run it successfully with their 5-6 staff until this year when they have decided to retire. Over the years the shop hasn’t just catered for those buying new shoes or repairing old ones but has also provided some ‘special’ lines as well. These include making a pair of boots for a black Berkshire sow who had sore feet, repairing a diving suit and even making some size 20 shoes for local entertainer Jay the Clown. Oddest of all must have been the male customer who walked into the shop, took off his trousers and asked the surprised staff if they could mend his wooden leg!

All good things come to an end, it is said, and now this much loved shoe shop is closing some 68 years after it first opened – one of the longest lived businesses in the town. It will be much missed.

Peter Christie.

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One hundred years ago – August 1917.

Meetings are held around the district to mark the 3rd Anniversary of the start of the war. Mr W T Charlwood presided over an evening gathering on Bone Hill. The salute was given by the Scout Bugle Band and prayers were offered by the vicar, Revd Gerald Payne Cook. A resolution was passed stating that while regretting the loss of life, they were determined to carry on the war to a successful issue.  Two Grand Promenade Concerts will be given at the Nassau Baths in Westward Ho! in aid of the Nursing Association and Soldiers Teas. If the weather is unfavourable the gymnasium will be used.

Mrs Daw of Yeolden House is making arrangement for a series of concerts to be given by the Belgian Artists Committee.

At Bradiven Farm on the Christie Estate Mr Dennis, who is one of the tenants, saw a demonstration of a Strait caterpillar crawler tractor capable of 2½ mph. It can pull a four-furrow Ransome plough, and at least 10 acres can be done in a day. The plough will be used by all of the estate tenants, a kindness much appreciated in these tough times.

A farmer from Abbotsham has been summoned to appear before Bideford Borough Sessions for selling adulterated milk. The defendant, who had delivered to the Workhouse, was in Lime Grove when apprehended. The witness purchased a pint of raw milk for 2½d which on analysis contained 5.88% added water. The farmer had been busy cutting hay and had left the milking to a boy aged 14 and a girl aged16, as he had no other help for many years. He said the milk supplied to the Workhouse had been analysed recently and found to be satisfactory. A fine of 9/- was imposed more as a warning than a punishment.

Farleighs stores remind readers that it is important to register your name and the number in your household for the purpose of the sugar rations. A card will be issued to enable you to claim your full entitlement. At this time of year many householders would be collecting hedgerow fruits for jam making and this will be a serious restriction to the diet.

In an advert by Mr E Gerrish, Chemist of 9 The Quay, the benefits of Iodized Sarsparilla are extolled. It is described as an excellent and certain remedy for diseases of the blood and skin. The price is 1 shilling per bottle.

Since the formation of the Carpentry Branch of the Bideford & District War Supply Department in April last the workers have made 160 pairs of crutches, 9 back leg splints, 16 Carrs wrist splints, 25 arm splints, 22 leg rests, 7 Bowlbys arm splints, 7 rectangular splints, 7 bed rests, 8 nests of splints, 19 bed tables, 42 plain grooved splints and 52 dropped wrist splints. A creditable record from voluntary workers generously supported by Bartlett & Bayliss & Co, Messrs Cocks of Appledore, Mr C Gibson, Mr H Williams of Royal North Devon Golf Club, all preparing the wood for crutches.

These and many more items of local interest are available to read at the Bideford Community Archive at the Council Offices, Windmill Lane, Northam. Tel: 01237 471714. Open Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday mornings.

STOP PRESS – Great News. The Archive is pleased to announce our new website www.bidefordarchive.org.uk You will now be able to see some of the items we hold in the offices here at Windmill Lane. You will be able to search our family names and local history databases that relate to the Bideford Gazette newspaper from 1856 onwards. We will be adding new information EVERY week so if you do not find what you are seeking on your first attempt, please keep coming back.

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A brief history of the Custom House.

Bideford’s buildings are constantly being reinvented – and anyone walking along to the Post Office will have noticed the old Custom House has become a new coffee shop – with some of the best views over the river from its first floor windows.

The main bulk of the building itself dates from 1695, just three years after the Bideford Bridge Trustees decided to develop a new street to be called Bridgeland. The first house was constructed by Nicholas Gascoyne in 1692-93, being the handsome brown brick building known to most as ‘Dr.Candler’s’. Nicholas, whose name suggests he was a descendant of French Huguenots who fled to North Devon, was a local carpenter and his work was evidently good enough for him to be granted a 99 year lease on the Custom House site on which he built himself a house.

By 1760 Benjamin Grant was leasing the house and there is a note in the Bridge Trust minutes from 1778 asking him ‘to replace the Stone which some time since was taken down from the Wall of the House he inhabits facing Bridgeland Street which Stone sett forth the time the said Street was built.‘ I wonder what happened to that?

In 1792 a new lease was granted to Thomas Grant, who was the Bridge Trust Steward, but he does not appear to have lived in it as by 1794 he was building Northdown House (later the Convent). A decade later three spinster sisters called Morrison were leasing the house though whether they actually lived there or not is uncertain. A surviving sister was still the leaseholder in 1832 when the building was noted as being the HQ of the local customs officers.

The earliest surviving census from 1841 records various of these officers living here – as they are so recorded up until the 1891 census when 72 year old Thomas Martin, ‘a gentleman,’ was then the occupant. In the 1901 and 1911 censuses William Martin, a retired builder, was living here and it seems to have continued as a private house until becoming a shop.

People may recall the dry cleaners that were based here for some years before it became a public house (Tequila Jack’s, Quigley’s, Custom House etc). Today it has been refurbished as a coffee shop, delicatessen and cinema, and enters a new stage in its long life.

Peter Christie.

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A brief history of the Palladium Club.

The Club began life in 1919 as the stables for the Heavitree Inn. In 1926 it was the Palladium Cinema and the ticket office was situated where Patts’ Fruit and Vegetable shop now is in Mill St. Later it became a Gentlemen’s Club, then for many years it was the home of the SWEB Social Club.The Palladium Club developed from this, with the bar made from the original skittle alley.(You can still see the brass points where the pins used to be placed before people played.)

The club has evolved from being a members’ drinking club to what it is now, a music venue with acts, both from our local area and as far away as Europe and America. The club also offers the facilities for snooker, pool and darts and has its own teams which continue to support the club.

The club is an important part of Bideford giving musicians a place to play and learn their craft – it would be very sad to see it go. The new owner is Ben Nigh ; we wish him well.

Margie Hughes (former owner).

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Walking the Coast Path; Mouthmill.

This is a beach of contrasts. A stream idly trickles through football-sized boulders down to the sea, while soothing sweeps of light-brown sand provide a backdrop to jutting rock formations that point arrow-like towards the Atlantic. It’s a place for exploring rather than lounging, though flat grassy areas above the sea wall are ideal for reclining on while you listen to the babble of water below. (from ‘Secret beaches of the South West’).

There’s a beautiful bluebell wood between Mouthmill and the car park at Brownsham – ‘a patchwork of vibrant blues, carpeting the lush green valley.’ Winbury Hill, an Iron age fort, looks down on Mouthmill and Blackchurch Rock – an ideal vantage point.  Was this remote spot ideal for smugglers to haul ashore their contraband without fear of discovery?  Blackchurch rock is awe inspiring – a natural arch with two windows carved out by the ravages of nature. (from ‘Mouthmill – Beautiful North Devon’).

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